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How to Build a Chicken Coop Cheaply - Simple, Strong, and Under $100

Chicken Coop

You don't need fancy tools or expensive lumber to give your chickens a safe, cozy home. We've built three coops ourselves - all under $100, all using scrap wood, old fencing, and stuff we found for free. If you can hammer a nail and carry a board, you can do this too.

Chickens don't care if their house looks perfect. They care about safety, dry floors, and quiet corners to lay eggs. Spend your money on good wire and strong locks - not on paint or decorations. We'll show you how to build a coop that lasts, keeps predators out, and won't empty your wallet.

Why Build It Yourself?

Pre-made coops cost hundreds - sometimes over a thousand dollars. And many are flimsy, too small, or fall apart after one winter. When you build it yourself, you control the size, the layout, and where every dollar goes.

  • You save at least 70% compared to store-bought coops.
  • You can fix or change it anytime without calling a handyman.
  • You use materials you already have - or can get for free.
  • Your chickens get exactly what they need - no more, no less.

We started with six hens and a $75 budget. Used old pallets, leftover roofing, and chicken wire from a neighbor cleaning out their garage. Three weekends later? Happy chickens. Zero debt.

Planning Your Coop - Size, Location, and Layout

Don't grab a hammer yet. A little planning saves time, money, and headaches later. Measure twice. Think ahead. Keep it simple.

How Big Should It Be?

Rule of thumb: 3-4 square feet per chicken inside the coop. Outside run? 8-10 square feet per bird. Too small = fighting, stress, dirty eggs. Too big = harder to clean and heat in winter.

  • For 4 chickens: 12-16 sq ft inside, 32-40 sq ft run.
  • For 6 chickens: 18-24 sq ft inside, 48-60 sq ft run.
  • Add a little extra if your chickens will spend lots of time indoors.

We built ours 4 feet wide, 6 feet long, and 4 feet tall. Perfect for six hens. Easy to clean. Easy to reach every corner.

Where to Put It?

Look for level ground. Near your house - but not too close. Morning sun is good. Afternoon shade is better. Keep it away from loud dogs or busy roads. Chickens like quiet.

  • Good drainage is a must - no puddles under the coop.
  • Leave room to walk around all sides for cleaning.
  • Face the door east - so hens wake up with the sun.

We placed ours under a big oak tree. Shade in summer. Shelter from wind in winter. No complaints from the flock.

Materials You Can Find for Free or Cheap

Stop thinking "lumber store." Start thinking "what's already lying around?" Old fences, broken sheds, shipping pallets, scrap metal - all can become coop walls, floors, or roofs.

Walls and Frame

Pallets are gold. Free behind grocery stores, warehouses, or hardware shops. Sand them down. Nail them together. Instant walls. Old fence panels? Even better - already weatherproofed.

  • Use 2x4s or thick branches for corner posts.
  • Cover gaps with scrap plywood or flattened cardboard boxes (temporarily).
  • Old windows or shutters make great ventilation panels.

We got eight clean pallets for free. Took us one Saturday to turn them into a full coop frame. Just added a roof and wire.

Flooring

Don't build on dirt. Predators dig. Moisture rises. Use old decking boards, plywood scraps, or even flattened shipping crates. Raise the floor 6-12 inches off the ground with cinder blocks or stacked bricks.

  • Cover the floor with old linoleum or shower curtains - easy to hose off.
  • Add a thick layer of pine shavings or straw on top.
  • No plywood? Use tightly nailed pallet slats.

Our floor cost $0. Found warped deck boards behind a neighbor's shed. Sanded the splinters. Screwed them down. Still solid after two years.

Roofing

Corrugated metal is ideal - sheds rain, lasts forever. Check construction sites or Craigslist. Often free or $5 per sheet. No metal? Use old tin signs, flattened barrels, or even heavy-duty tarps stretched tight and weighted down.

  • Slope the roof so rain runs off - even 5 degrees helps.
  • Overlap sheets so water can't sneak in.
  • Add scrap insulation under the roof if you live in cold areas.

We used an old shed roof someone was throwing out. Cut it in half. Fit it perfect. Cost: a six-pack of soda for the guy hauling it away.

Wire and Latches - Don't Cheap Out Here

This is where you spend money. Good wire keeps raccoons, foxes, and dogs out. Bad wire gets your chickens killed. Use ½ inch hardware cloth - not chicken wire. Chicken wire bends. Hardware cloth holds strong.

  • Cover every window, door, and gap - top to bottom.
  • Bury wire 12 inches underground around the run - stops diggers.
  • Use two latches per door - raccoons can open one.

We spent $35 on wire and latches. Worth every penny. Had a raccoon try three times. Gave up each time. Our hens slept safe.

Step-by-Step Build - Simple and Fast

Step 1: Build the Floor Frame

Use 2x4s or thick branches. Nail into a rectangle the size you planned. Add cross braces every 2 feet so it doesn't sag. Set it on blocks or bricks. Level it with a rock or stick.

Step 2: Add Walls

Stand pallets or fence panels on edge. Nail them to the floor frame and to each other at corners. Leave one side open for the door. Cut a small hole low on the front for the chicken door - 12x12 inches is plenty.

Step 3: Install Roof

Lean two sheets of metal or wood at an angle. Nail to the top of the walls. Overlap the peak. Weight down or screw into place. No leaks = happy chickens.

Step 4: Add Wire and Doors

Staple or screw hardware cloth over every opening. Build a simple human door from scrap wood. Hang with old hinges. Add two latches. Make a small chicken door from a piece of plywood - slide it open and closed with a stick.

Step 5: Nesting Boxes and Perches

Use old milk crates, drawers, or shoeboxes turned on their side. Line with straw. Mount 18 inches off the floor. For perches? Use broom handles, thick branches, or old chair legs. Nail them 2 feet high. One foot of perch per chicken.

We used an old dresser drawer. Pulled it out. Added straw. Hens claimed it same day. Still their favorite spot.

Extras That Cost Nothing

You don't need fancy feeders or waterers. A shallow pan? Holds water fine. A cut-off soda bottle? Hang it on a nail - instant feeder. Old bath towels? Great for cleaning or lining nests.

  • Hang a cabbage from the ceiling - chickens love pecking it.
  • Use broken tiles or flat stones under waterers - stops mud.
  • Old CD on a string? Dangles and scares off hawks.

We nailed a pie tin to a stick. Spins in the wind. Hawks hate it. Cost: zero.

Maintenance Tips - Keep It Clean and Safe

A cheap coop only stays good if you take care of it. Clean often. Check wire. Watch for leaks. A few minutes each week saves you rebuilding next year.

  • Rake out old bedding every two weeks - compost it.
  • Check wire monthly for holes or rust.
  • Re-tighten latches and hinges every season.
  • Wash feeders and waterers with vinegar once a week.

We keep a bucket by the coop with rags, a hammer, and spare wire. Fix small problems right away. Big problems never happen.

Conclusion

Don't wait for the "perfect" materials. Don't wait until you have "enough" money. Grab what you've got. Start small. Build one wall this weekend. Add the roof next week. Chickens are patient. They'll thank you with eggs.

We still laugh when neighbors ask how much our coop cost. "About two Saturdays and a tank of gas to haul scraps," we say. Their store-bought coop? Cost $800 and blew over in a storm.

Your chickens don't need a palace. They need dry feet, safe nights, and room to scratch. You can give them that - without spending a fortune. Hammer in hand. Smile on your face. Eggs in your future. Get instant access to all current and upcoming PDFs via the front door.